Holy Week: Not Wholly Uninteresting (Written April 15, 2012)

Holy Week meant five days off school and seven days of (almost) uninterrupted free time. In a hot climate like this, a whole week with little to do can be asking for sweat to invade every crevice of your body. Thankfully, I had something interesting going on nearly every day.

Palm Sunday was quite a cultural experience. The members of the church congregation worked to erect a rancho, a covered patio of palm leaves and bamboo, to cover the outdoor area surrounding the church. They also built arches of balm branches, different check points in the procession to honor Jesus´ last days. The congregation, along with the priest, a nun, and a guitarist, started their procession uphill at the school, and ended at the church, after which we all attended mass. I actually ended up being part of the process, as the priest gave me his digital camera and asked me to take pictures. (Imagine the sight of a priest in full robes with a digital camera...)

(Palm Sunday procession)

I had two days of school-related engagements to take up my mornings, but afternoons free to spend under the rancho. And that rancho ended up being the hangout spot for the week, with shade and an open kiosk serving food. It was especially great for me because the ladies (almost) always gave me free food. Church events took place every night, usually just some form of adoration, an hour or so of singing hymns. I hung around and chatted as much as I could.

Then, after a few days out and about I came back to site, just in time for the Easter festivities, the Encuentro familiar. The rancho became a mostly family-friendly party scene and the ladies were going strong, selling hojaldra (small, homemade elephant ears/funnel cake/whatever else you might call it), cut-up hot dogs in an orange sauce, and other goodies. The nun (who was quite a character) tried to get the crowd dancing, but people mostly stuck to their seats, far too shy to dance unless alcohol loosened their joints. Extremely loud stereo music (a Panamanian favorite) gave way to live music. A band complete with guitar, bass, two types of drums, and accordion, slowly emerged and played esentially the same music coming from the CD players. Although it often just sounded like noise, it was great to see some culture from my friends and neighbors. The band later dispersed and next up were some kids in a mini cantadera. Honestly, I can only find a word for the event and not the genre of singing that took place. However, it consisted of guitar, occasionally some original compositions, and a form of yodeling you can see on a TV show here called Semilla de cantores. It was cool to see some young talent, but to my ear, it seemed like it would be years before they would truly hone their skills.

(Get it, sister!)
Aside from the music, a tómbola (a raffle) initiated some excitement. The grand prize: una novilla (a calf), the equivalent of $200 alive, and a lot more in meat.

It was the biggest party to hit my town since I´ve been here. And it was great to see that my site can be fun, since it´s pretty calm the rest of the time.